Yet Another Hair Type? Understanding Relaxed Hair, Curl Patterns, and Healthy Hair Care
By Lady Carolyn M. Summerset
Crowning Glory — Coils & Kinks
Originally published May 22, 2013 | Refreshed October 2026
Hello, my beautiful Curl Friends! 💕
Have you ever come across something about hair care that made you stop and say, “Now, wait a minute! Are we adding another hair type?”
Well, ladies, that is exactly what happened to me back in 2013!
While researching natural hair textures, particularly 3C curls, I stumbled upon an interesting discussion about a proposed classification called Type 5A Relaxed Hair.
My first thought was, “Yet another hair type? Really?” LOL!
But the more I considered the conversation, the more I realized there was an important subject worth discussing: how we classify our hair, how chemical treatments affect our strands, and why understanding our hair's actual needs matters more than assigning it a number or letter.
What Is the Hair Typing System?
The commonly used hair typing system describes visible curl patterns, ranging from straight hair to tightly coiled textures.
You may recognize the categories:
Type 1: Straight hair
Type 2: Wavy hair
Type 3: Curly hair
Type 4: Coily or tightly textured hair
Each category is sometimes divided into A, B, and C classifications.
However, these categories are descriptive rather than scientific diagnoses. They do not tell the entire story about a person's hair.
Two women may both have 4A hair yet experience completely different results from the same conditioner, moisturizer, or styling gel.
Why? Because curl pattern is only one part of the equation!
Strand thickness, density, porosity, previous chemical processing, styling practices, and the condition of the hair all influence how it responds to products.
So, Is There Really a Type 5A?
The term Type 5A Relaxed Hair appeared in an online discussion I encountered while researching hair types in 2013.
It was an interesting way of drawing attention to the different care needs of chemically relaxed hair, but Type 5A is not a recognized category in the commonly used hair typing system.
Relaxed hair is not a naturally occurring curl pattern classification.
Rather, it is hair that has undergone chemical processing to permanently alter its original curl structure.
And ladies, that distinction is important!
Whether a woman wears her hair naturally curly, chemically relaxed, pressed, braided, or in a beautiful protective style, her hair deserves thoughtful care.
Understanding What Relaxers Do to Hair
Chemical relaxers alter the structure of hair so that curls and coils become straighter.
While this can make certain styles easier to achieve, the process also changes the hair fiber and can make it more vulnerable to dryness and breakage.
Relaxed hair may require particular attention to maintaining strength, reducing friction, and protecting fragile ends.
This does not mean that every woman with relaxed hair will experience damage. It simply means chemical processing introduces risks that deserve careful management.
For women choosing relaxers, following product directions, avoiding scalp irritation, and seeking an experienced professional are important precautions.
Never apply a relaxer to an irritated scalp, and avoid overlapping relaxer onto previously straightened lengths.
Natural Hair and Relaxed Hair: Different Journeys, Shared Needs
One thing I have learned throughout my own natural hair journey is that healthy hair care is not about criticizing another woman's styling choices.
I have seen beautiful natural hair, beautiful relaxed hair, and beautiful transitioning hair.
Our journeys may look different, but the fundamentals of caring for our strands remain remarkably similar.
Gentle cleansing: Remove buildup and keep the scalp comfortable without unnecessarily stripping the hair.
Conditioning: Use conditioners that improve softness, manageability, and detangling.
Moisture management: Pay attention to how your hair feels and responds to water-based products and conditioning treatments.
Damage prevention: Minimize unnecessary heat, harsh brushing, tight hairstyles, and excessive manipulation.
Regular assessment of the ends: Watch for splitting, breakage, and roughness. Trim damaged ends when needed.
And remember, ladies, a product that works beautifully for one woman may not be the best choice for another!
What About Women Transitioning From Relaxed to Natural Hair?
Now, this is where things become especially interesting.
When a woman stops using chemical relaxers and allows her natural texture to grow, she may have two distinctly different textures on the same head.
The new growth retains its natural curl pattern, while the previously relaxed lengths remain chemically altered.
The point where these textures meet is often called the line of demarcation.
This area can be especially vulnerable to breakage.
If you are transitioning, take your time with detangling, keep the hair conditioned, and avoid excessive tension when styling.
You do not have to complete a big chop unless that is what you genuinely desire.
Some women prefer gradually trimming away the relaxed ends, while others enjoy the freedom of starting fresh with a shorter hairstyle.
Both choices are valid.
Your Hair Is More Than a Number or Letter
Ladies, I believe this is the most important lesson in the entire conversation.
Hair typing can be helpful when describing textures or exploring styling possibilities, but it should never become a measure of beauty.
No one should feel that her hair is somehow less desirable because her curl pattern is tighter, looser, or less defined than someone else's.
Your crown has its own characteristics, its own needs, and its own beauty.
Instead of becoming overly concerned with whether your hair is 3C, 4A, 4B, 4C, or some newly suggested category, learn what makes your particular strands thrive.
That knowledge will serve you far better than any label.
A Little Wisdom From My Hair Journey
If there is one thing I would tell my younger self, it would be this:
Stop expecting your hair to behave like someone else's and start learning how to love and care for the hair you have.
Beautiful hair does not have to be perfectly defined, exceptionally long, or styled a particular way.
Our crowns reflect individuality, creativity, and personal choice.
Whether your hair is natural, relaxed, transitioning, short, or long, it deserves to be treated with care and respect.
And that, my beautiful Curl Friends, is what Crowning Glory has always been about!
Let's Talk, Ladies! 💕
Have you ever felt confused by the different hair typing systems?
Do you believe hair typing helps women understand their textures, or has it sometimes created unnecessary comparisons?
And for my ladies who have worn both relaxed and natural hair, what differences have you noticed in your routines?
I'd love to hear your experiences in the comments!
Until next time, remember:
Every Coil. Every Kink. Every Crown.
Happy Curls to You! 🌸
Lady Carolyn M. Summerset
Crowning Glory — Coils & Kinks
© 2026 Crowning Glory — Coils & Kinks by Lady Carolyn M. Summerset. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or republished without prior written permission of the author.
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