Natural Hair Growth: The Do's & Don'ts — Then and Now! What We've Learned About Caring for Our Crowns



By Lady Carolyn M. Summerset
Crowning Glory — Coils & Kinks

From the Crowning Glory Archives | Refreshed October 2026

Hello, My Beautiful Naturalistas!

Ladies, we're taking another trip down memory lane!

And let me tell you, this one brought back some memories!

While revisiting my earlier Crowning Glory articles, I came across an infographic titled “Do's & Don'ts — Natural Hair Growth.”

Oh, honey, remember those days?

We were learning about the LOC method, protective hairstyles, satin bonnets, moisturizing routines, and the importance of keeping our hands out of our hair!

Everywhere you looked, there was another naturalista sharing her latest discovery.

One woman swore by coconut oil.

Another couldn't live without shea butter.

And somebody else was mixing enough ingredients in her kitchen to open a small beauty supply store!

But we were learning.

We were experimenting.

And most importantly, we were becoming more comfortable embracing our natural curls, coils, and kinks.

Now, more than a decade later, I thought it would be interesting to revisit that original chart.

What advice still holds true? What have we learned since then? And what new trends are changing the way we care for natural hair?


Let's talk about it!

A Little History From the Crowning Glory Archives

I'm preserving the original Do's & Don'ts infographic from BlackNaps.org because it represents an important period in the natural hair movement.

Back then, natural hair education was becoming increasingly accessible through blogs, YouTube tutorials, online communities, and women sharing their personal experiences.

We were learning to understand our own textures rather than trying to make them behave like someone else's hair.

The original infographic emphasized good nutrition, hydration, moisture routines, protective styling, gentle manipulation, and regular hair maintenance.

Many of those recommendations remain valuable.

However, we've also learned that natural hair doesn't follow one universal set of rules.

A routine that works beautifully for one woman may not produce the same results for another.

And that's one of the biggest lessons I've learned throughout my own natural hair journey.

What the Original Chart Got Right

Let's begin by giving credit where credit is due!

There were some excellent reminders in that older infographic.

1. Gentle Handling Is Still Essential

The original chart warned against excessive brushing, combing, and manipulation.

And ladies, that advice still matters!

Repeated pulling, aggressive detangling, and unnecessary friction can contribute to hair breakage.

Today, we understand that detangling should be approached carefully, particularly when working with tightly curled or coiled hair.

Using a conditioner with adequate slip, working in sections, and beginning at the ends can make the process easier.

But here's an important update:

Finger-detangling isn't automatically better than using a comb or brush.

The best technique is the one that allows you to detangle effectively without unnecessary pulling or breakage.

Some women prefer their fingers.

Others achieve better results with a wide-tooth comb or flexible detangling brush.

And that's perfectly okay!

2. Conditioning Remains a Priority

The old infographic encouraged keeping natural hair moisturized.

I couldn't agree more!

Conditioning is an important part of maintaining softness, manageability, and reducing friction during styling.

However, there's something we understand more clearly today.

Water, oils, creams, and conditioners don't all perform the same function.

Water helps hydrate hair.

Conditioners contain ingredients that can improve lubrication and softness.

Oils can help lubricate strands and influence moisture movement.

And styling creams may combine conditioning ingredients with ingredients that support a particular hairstyle.

Healthy hair care is about choosing the right combination, not simply piling products onto your strands.



3. Protective Styling Can Be Helpful

Another excellent reminder from the original chart was protecting your ends.

Braids, twists, buns, and other low-manipulation hairstyles can help reduce daily handling.

But here's the important update.

A hairstyle is only protective if it doesn't create unnecessary damage.

Braids that are too tight can damage the hairline.

Heavy extensions can place stress on fragile strands.

And keeping a style in too long without appropriate scalp care can lead to additional problems.

So, ladies, remember:

A beautiful hairstyle should never require you to sacrifice the health of your hair.

4. Nighttime Protection Still Matters

Oh, yes!

We're still talking about satin bonnets, scarves, and pillowcases!

And for good reason.

Smooth fabrics can help reduce friction while we sleep.

This may make hair easier to manage and reduce some opportunities for tangling or mechanical breakage.

But don't forget that a bonnet should fit comfortably.

If it's pulling tightly around your edges or constantly rubbing your hairline, consider a different fit or style.

Your nighttime routine should protect your crown, not punish it!

What We've Learned Since Those Early Natural Hair Days

Now, here's where things become especially interesting.

The original infographic offered general advice intended to help naturalistas develop healthier habits.

Today, we're increasingly recognizing how important individualized hair care can be.

1. Hair Texture Is Only Part of the Story

Years ago, so much of our attention centered around identifying whether our hair was 3C, 4A, 4B, or 4C.

And while curl typing can help describe the appearance of our natural hair, it doesn't tell us everything.

Two women with similar curl patterns may have completely different experiences with the same product.

Why?

Because strand thickness, hair density, porosity, previous damage, and styling habits also matter.

As someone with fine, low-porosity hair, I've learned that heavier product layering doesn't always work well for my strands.

My hair often responds better when I use smaller amounts of products that distribute easily.

Another woman with thicker strands may prefer a richer combination.

Neither routine is wrong.

The goal is to understand your own hair rather than forcing it into somebody else's routine.

2. The LOC Method Isn't a Requirement

Remember when everybody was talking about the LOC method?

Liquid. Oil. Cream.

Then came LCO.

Liquid. Cream. Oil.

And before long, ladies, some of us had so many layers on our hair that our curls barely knew what to do!

Here's what we've learned.

The LOC and LCO methods can be useful approaches for some hair types, but they aren't mandatory steps for healthy natural hair.

Some women achieve excellent results with a leave-in conditioner and gel.

Others enjoy a cream and a light oil.

And some prefer a simple conditioner followed by a styling mousse.

There is no single layering sequence scientifically established as best for every natural hair texture.

Sometimes simplifying your routine can actually improve your results.

3. Trimming Doesn't Make Hair Grow Faster

Now, ladies, let's clear this up!

Hair grows from follicles beneath the scalp.

Trimming the ends doesn't directly increase the rate of growth.

However, removing split or severely damaged ends can help prevent further splitting and breakage.

And that can make it easier to retain visible length.

That's the difference between hair growth and length retention.

Rather than following one strict trimming schedule, pay attention to your hair's condition.

If your ends are rough, splitting, or tangling excessively, they may need professional attention.

What's Trending in Natural Hair Care in 2026?

The natural hair community continues to evolve, and several interesting developments are shaping the conversation.

Trend 1: Simpler, More Intentional Hair Routines

Remember when every new product launch had us running to the beauty supply store?

Well, ladies, some of us have learned a valuable lesson.

More products don't necessarily mean better hair!

Natural hair consumers are increasingly interested in manageable routines and products that deliver practical value.

Some are choosing fewer styling products and focusing on the basics rather than maintaining complicated routines.

And with the cost of beauty products rising over time, being thoughtful about what we purchase makes good sense.

A dependable shampoo, conditioner, and suitable styler may be all some naturalistas need.

Trend 2: Scalp Care Is Getting More Attention

For years, we concentrated heavily on the hair we could see.

Curl definition.

Length.

Shine.

Moisture.

But the scalp deserves attention too!

A healthy scalp environment is important for comfortable, normal hair growth.

Today's hair-care conversation increasingly includes cleansing, scalp comfort, buildup management, and recognizing when irritation requires professional attention.

And ladies, let me remind you:

A scalp doesn't need to be coated in heavy oils to be healthy.

Sometimes a gentle, consistent cleansing routine is exactly what it needs.

Trend 3: Hair Versatility Without Unnecessary Damage

One thing I love about natural hair is its versatility.

We can wear beautiful afros, wash-and-gos, twist-outs, braid-outs, braids, locs, and elegant updos.

Some women also enjoy occasionally straightening their natural hair.

Today's conversation places increasing importance on achieving different looks while minimizing unnecessary damage.

That means paying attention to heat exposure, tension, friction, and product compatibility.

It's not about restricting how women choose to wear their hair.

It's about having choices and understanding how to care for our strands.

Trend 4: Representation and Texture Acceptance

Now, this is one of the changes that truly warms my heart.

Natural hair is more visible in beauty campaigns, online communities, and everyday professional settings.

And we've also seen greater public discussion of discrimination based on natural hair textures and protective hairstyles.

The CROWN Act movement, which began in 2019, has helped bring attention to race-based hair discrimination.

That matters because natural hair isn't simply a styling preference for everyone.

For many women, it's also connected to cultural identity and self-expression.

And every woman deserves dignity and respect regardless of how she chooses to wear her hair.

Trend 5: More Education, Less Guesswork

Another change I appreciate is the growing interest in understanding how hair products actually work.

Women are asking better questions.

What does this ingredient do?

Does my hair really need more protein?

Why does one gel work beautifully in humid weather but not in dry conditions?

How does buildup affect styling?

What is the difference between a moisturizing conditioner and a strengthening treatment?

These are valuable conversations!

And the more we learn, the better equipped we become to make informed decisions for our individual strands.

Then and Now: What the Two Charts Reveal

When I compare our original infographic with the new 2026 version, I notice something interesting.

The older chart focused on creating a solid foundation.

It taught women what to do and what to avoid.

The newer chart emphasizes many of those same principles, but our understanding has become more flexible.

We recognize that healthy natural hair doesn't depend on one specific oil, one styling method, or one universal routine.


Here's how I would summarize the difference:

Then: Original ChartNow: Updated Understanding
Follow the LOC method  Choose layering methods based on individual results
Keep hair moisturized                             Understand hydration, conditioning, and lubrication
Avoid over-combingDetangle gently with the tool or technique that works
Wear protective stylesChoose low-tension styles and maintain scalp care
Protect hair while sleepingReduce friction with comfortable satin or silk accessories
Maintain a trimming scheduleTrim according to the condition of your ends
Avoid excessive heatUse heat thoughtfully, with appropriate protection
Focus on growing longer hairFocus on scalp health, strand care, and length retention

And here's the important part:

The foundation hasn't disappeared. We've simply learned how to build upon it.

One Thing That Hasn't Changed: Consistency Matters!

Ladies, if there is one truth that remains valuable throughout the years, it's this:

Healthy hair habits require consistency.

Not perfection.

Not purchasing every trending product.

And certainly not comparing your hair to every beautiful naturalista on social media!

Consistency means learning what your hair needs and developing a routine that supports those needs.

It means cleansing when necessary, conditioning appropriately, detangling gently, and paying attention to your scalp and ends.

It also means recognizing when a product or technique isn't working.

Because sometimes the most important thing we can do is stop doing something that isn't helping our hair.

My Final Thoughts: Honoring the Journey

Looking back at this old infographic reminds me of how much the natural hair community has learned.

We have watched trends come and go.

We've tried countless products.

We've celebrated beautiful twist-outs and laughed over wash-and-gos that didn't quite go according to plan.

We've learned about porosity, strand thickness, product ingredients, and styling techniques.

But perhaps the most beautiful lesson is that our natural hair doesn't have to look like anybody else's to be worthy of care.

Whether your hair is short or long, fine or coarse, loosely curled or tightly coiled, your crown deserves attention and appreciation.

And ladies, let's remember something.

Healthy hair isn't measured by how quickly it grows or how closely it resembles someone else's curls.

It's about caring for what you've been given.

So today, I'm honoring the original chart.

I'm celebrating what we've learned since then.

And I'm looking forward to the discoveries still ahead.


Because our natural hair journey is always evolving!

Let's Talk, Naturalistas!

Now, ladies, I want to hear from you!

Do you remember following the LOC method faithfully?

Have you simplified your natural hair routine over the years?

What is one piece of natural hair advice you believed years ago but have since reconsidered?

And here's my favorite question:

If you could give your younger natural-haired self one piece of advice, what would it be?

Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Let's continue learning, encouraging one another, and celebrating our beautiful crowns.

Happy Curls to You!

Lady Carolyn M. Summerset
Crowning Glory — Coils & Kinks


© 2026 Crowning Glory — Coils & Kinks by Lady Carolyn M. Summerset. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or republished without prior written permission of the author.




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